Finally, having a weekend to myself and NOT being sick, Rachel and I opted for a scenic walk in the woods of Goshikinuma. These swamp-lakes are a popular tourist attraction in Fukushima prefecture, a result of a large volcanic eruption more than one hundred years ago. We’ve been there before: once in the late spring, once in the late summer, and once in the fall. The atmosphere of these lakes changes depending on the weather and amount of visitors, but each time has always been a beautiful view.
Yesterday was no exception as we planned on hiking the trail through several feet of snow. Well, I guess we were really hoping that the trail would be cleared, or at least compacted. If it wasn’t then our jeans would have surely soaked through. At least Rachel had some mid-calf boots….I was just relying on my goretex-lined Keens, high wool socks, smartwool under layer, and no gaiters. We got a pretty good deal on the train schedule, leaving at 9:50 from Funehiki and only stopping in Koriyama for 30 minutes to change trains. We boarded and barely found two seats together on the rapid liner towards Aizu. It was much more comfy than the local train; I put back the seat and took a little nap. As the white world whizzed by there were occasional black dots outside. Looking closer heads appeared and it was obvious that Japan had declared National Take a Picture Day. Tons of people busted out their tripods and set up….somewhere along the train line to catch a shot of the blue mass passing through the snow fields. Poking out of a tunnel, clipping through a snow cloud, a sassy foreground to snowy mountains, the moving train certainly made a nice contrast to the winter scene for a photographer’s keen eye.
Arriving at Inawashiro we walked out to the parking lot to check the bus schedule. We’d last taken it with Celeste in September. No worries.
As soon as we stepped through the door it was a different world. Besides the snow being piled 4 feet high, the wind whipped our faces to the point where I wanted to walk backwards just to avoid it. Despite the infamous depth of snow, the parking lot was surprisingly bare. Oh, it’s because they installed an irrigation system IN THE PAVEMENT that continually runs water to prevent ice from forming. Mini sprinklers. Nice.
Yesterday was no exception as we planned on hiking the trail through several feet of snow. Well, I guess we were really hoping that the trail would be cleared, or at least compacted. If it wasn’t then our jeans would have surely soaked through. At least Rachel had some mid-calf boots….I was just relying on my goretex-lined Keens, high wool socks, smartwool under layer, and no gaiters. We got a pretty good deal on the train schedule, leaving at 9:50 from Funehiki and only stopping in Koriyama for 30 minutes to change trains. We boarded and barely found two seats together on the rapid liner towards Aizu. It was much more comfy than the local train; I put back the seat and took a little nap. As the white world whizzed by there were occasional black dots outside. Looking closer heads appeared and it was obvious that Japan had declared National Take a Picture Day. Tons of people busted out their tripods and set up….somewhere along the train line to catch a shot of the blue mass passing through the snow fields. Poking out of a tunnel, clipping through a snow cloud, a sassy foreground to snowy mountains, the moving train certainly made a nice contrast to the winter scene for a photographer’s keen eye.
Arriving at Inawashiro we walked out to the parking lot to check the bus schedule. We’d last taken it with Celeste in September. No worries.
As soon as we stepped through the door it was a different world. Besides the snow being piled 4 feet high, the wind whipped our faces to the point where I wanted to walk backwards just to avoid it. Despite the infamous depth of snow, the parking lot was surprisingly bare. Oh, it’s because they installed an irrigation system IN THE PAVEMENT that continually runs water to prevent ice from forming. Mini sprinklers. Nice.
I checked the bus schedule. There were lots of gaps. Hmm….obviously this is not the popular time to go to the lakes because the bus only went up there 5 times during the whole day! Luckily one should arrive very soon…
I asked a few bus drivers if they were going in that direction. Negative. We waited inside the station for a few minutes before I spotted the lake kanji on an incoming bus. We ran outside and boarded the bus with one other couple. Safely arriving at the 5 lakes we headed up to the tourist center.
Closed.
Aaaaaand wall o’ snow hiding the entire building.
I asked a few bus drivers if they were going in that direction. Negative. We waited inside the station for a few minutes before I spotted the lake kanji on an incoming bus. We ran outside and boarded the bus with one other couple. Safely arriving at the 5 lakes we headed up to the tourist center.
Closed.
Aaaaaand wall o’ snow hiding the entire building.
Guess we can’t use the restrooms here.
Oh well. We figured the other end of the trail would be open since it was bigger so we set out on our journey. The first test was getting down the hill to the lake path. Snow-packed and slippery.
Excellent.
I unzipped my rain cover from the bottom pouch of my backpack and sat on it.
Wheeeeeeeee!!!!!!! I slid down the hill without incident.
Hiking past each lake we stopped to take pictures of the winter wonderland. Some lakes were completely frozen/snowed over, but some still retained their thick blue and green (and sometimes puke brown) colors. The bare trees were laden with snow, bowing their branches in response. Ducks swam apathetically across the pond while songbirds chirped to each other through the clear forest. There were some very dry and very dead flowers resting on top of the snow, often in the middle of the trail. I’m not sure how they got ON the snow…shouldn’t they be buried?
Oh well. We figured the other end of the trail would be open since it was bigger so we set out on our journey. The first test was getting down the hill to the lake path. Snow-packed and slippery.
Excellent.
I unzipped my rain cover from the bottom pouch of my backpack and sat on it.
Wheeeeeeeee!!!!!!! I slid down the hill without incident.
Hiking past each lake we stopped to take pictures of the winter wonderland. Some lakes were completely frozen/snowed over, but some still retained their thick blue and green (and sometimes puke brown) colors. The bare trees were laden with snow, bowing their branches in response. Ducks swam apathetically across the pond while songbirds chirped to each other through the clear forest. There were some very dry and very dead flowers resting on top of the snow, often in the middle of the trail. I’m not sure how they got ON the snow…shouldn’t they be buried?
We passed only three people: a man, and a couple with their Bernese Mountain Dog who was happy as a clam jumping through the snow. As soon as we arrived at the end of the trail we passed a hoard of snowshoers. Decked in bright colors, huge backpacks, and of course gaiters and poles, we said hello as they followed their guide into the forest we’d just exited. Yes, the same trail we’d just walked with our hiking shoes. Oh Japan. That’s just it though—if you’re going to do something outdoorsy here you have to do it RIGHT. That means ALL the gear and ALL the clothes you could possibly need…even though the trail is practically groomed.
Approaching the tourist center we sadly discovered that it was closed. So was the other tourist shop. So was the gelato stand. It wasn’t until we followed a road to the biggest lake that we came into civilization.
We’d only been to this lake once, last fall, when Enchou Sensei took us on a boat tour.
“In the winter time, there is ice fishing here.” He said.
“Some people stay in a tent on the ice.”
Wow, that sounded so extreme to me.
I was super surprised when we came over the knoll, walked through the crowded parking lot, and saw the lake not only frozen and snowed over, but littered with small tents and camps! There weren’t just a few---countless!!! Not in one concentrated area but in every acre of the lake there were several camps. People walked around with their gear strapped to little sleds while snowmobilers zipped about the lake and around the main building.
Yes, at last something was open! I bought a few things at the gift shop downstairs, and upstairs we bought a cup of cocoa in the restaurant/lunch hall. I had brought a PB&J sandwich to munch, but Rachel enjoyed a plate of hot gyoza as we watched the people walk about out on the lake.
Ice fishing. Who’d have thought?!
We’d only been to this lake once, last fall, when Enchou Sensei took us on a boat tour.
“In the winter time, there is ice fishing here.” He said.
“Some people stay in a tent on the ice.”
Wow, that sounded so extreme to me.
I was super surprised when we came over the knoll, walked through the crowded parking lot, and saw the lake not only frozen and snowed over, but littered with small tents and camps! There weren’t just a few---countless!!! Not in one concentrated area but in every acre of the lake there were several camps. People walked around with their gear strapped to little sleds while snowmobilers zipped about the lake and around the main building.
Yes, at last something was open! I bought a few things at the gift shop downstairs, and upstairs we bought a cup of cocoa in the restaurant/lunch hall. I had brought a PB&J sandwich to munch, but Rachel enjoyed a plate of hot gyoza as we watched the people walk about out on the lake.
Ice fishing. Who’d have thought?!
The walk back was relatively uneventful, pausing every now and then to take a picture and pass the group of snowshoers. We walked past the hostel we had stayed at in the late summer—obviously closed—and eventually arrived at the hotel across the road from the entrance to catch the bus back into town.
While waiting we discovered that the front attendant had some spare time on his hands. Since he had to stand outside all day long and greet people, he figured he’d be productive and made some snow sculptures. Pretty awesome.
While waiting we discovered that the front attendant had some spare time on his hands. Since he had to stand outside all day long and greet people, he figured he’d be productive and made some snow sculptures. Pretty awesome.
Buses started to pull in and I asked several more drivers if they were going to the train station. I finally won and we boarded our bus back to town. We were the only riders and the driver made sure that we were going all the way to the station.
“Yes, to the station please.” I said.
As we got into town and checked the train schedule we realized we’d have to wait at least a half hour before boarding. To pass the time (and save money…the bus is super expensive) we got off early and walked the rest of the way. The driver was so surprised.
“Uh, this isn’t the station you know!” He informed me.
“Yes, I know. We just want to walk. Thanks though!”
The sidewalk was so slippery we almost died several times. We did enjoy the leisurely pace and the setting sun, however.
“Yes, to the station please.” I said.
As we got into town and checked the train schedule we realized we’d have to wait at least a half hour before boarding. To pass the time (and save money…the bus is super expensive) we got off early and walked the rest of the way. The driver was so surprised.
“Uh, this isn’t the station you know!” He informed me.
“Yes, I know. We just want to walk. Thanks though!”
The sidewalk was so slippery we almost died several times. We did enjoy the leisurely pace and the setting sun, however.
The train back was crowded but I just took a nap. When we got to Koriyama we made the very easy decision to treat ourselves to a donut at Mister Donuts. I may have bought 4. Combined with my chai latte from Starbucks it was a pretty excellent snack/dinner after a long walk in the snow.
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