Japan still celebrates many traditional cultural and religious events, customs and holidays that have been intact for centuries. America has no idea.

However, Japan has an idea about OUR holidays, namely Halloween and Christmas. Unfortunately that’s all there is…an idea. It’s weird.

They think Halloween is just about trick or treating…but they don’t knock on their neighbors’ doors. People dress up in costumes, usually witches or anime characters, and go to parties I guess. There are plenty of decorations in the stores, but it’s not really celebrated. They certainly have no idea of the satanic rituals behind the holiday.

Christmas is pretty special sauce, too. Instead of a day devoted to family, food, and giving presents, it’s time to order out KFC and buy a Christmas cake for everyone to enjoy…if you got the day off of work. Yep, pretty much everyone at the English School was working on Christmas Eve day except the American teachers. Most Japanese people live in a home that spans 3 generations or more, and if one does live away from their family there are other traditional holidays that merit visiting the relatives such as obon festival in summer and oshougatsu (New Years) in January. There is no more need to take time off of work for some foreign holiday to visit your in-laws, so instead Christmas became a day celebrated by children and couples. Children open the gifts in the morning, and couples travel by train to spend the day together. Like I mentioned for Halloween, despite the lack of meaning there is no shortage of display of the holiday. Yes, let’s try and look like we’re doing it the right way by going over the top with decorations. 

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Christmas Cake
Christmas lights? Check. But be careful because they are like strobe lights on crack. You’ll practically get a seizure from looking at them too long.

Christmas trees? Check. But they’re all fake and really spacey between the branches.

Did someone say the tree just needs more ornaments to fill the gaps? We’ve got ornaments…watch out for the ones still left over from 1974.  

There is no shortage of santas, santa suits, reindeer, star decorations, and snowmen. Plenty of cute Japanified decorations, tiny little red and gold balls, gift bags, and store sales.

What’s missing is the nativity.

As part of our teaching responsibilities we’re requested to teach about Christmas in the public schools. In addition to explaining about Christmas cookies, live trees, plethora of presents, and stockings, we also get to explain the story of the nativity and baby Jesus.

I took the opportunity in my own Wakakusa classes to have a little Christmas party with each class. It looked differently for each grade: The younger kids played Christmas word games, then they decorated their own paper ornament and I blindfolded them as they spun around and tried to stick their ornament on the tree I drew on the chalkboard. The 4th grade wrote letters to Santa, and the 6th grade got to play the epic “unwrap the present that’s wrapped a thousand times” game.  I also baked 120 sugar cookies to share, and they were elated that I let them eat snacks during class. It’s the simple pleasures in life. 

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Sixth graders playing the present game
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My Christmas wreath, made with a bamboo base, random trees and plants I clipped along the side of the road while riding my bike.
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Outside the apartments, on the way to teach at Funehiki Elementary
Thursday I hosted three of these parties in a row, then stayed after work taking care of last-minute paperwork and cleaning a bit before break.

On Friday I slept in.

I think I cleaned a bit around my apartment but I can’t really remember. Later I received an invitation to a candle light service at a church a few towns away and I accepted the free ride. Three of us girls rode with Mari to the town of Mougi. We weaved in the dark through a windy neighborhood street until we topped out on the mounting, pulling into the church parking lot. What a view! The lit city of Koriyama brightened up the Western sky while the stars above competed for the Eastern half. We walked into the genkan, warmly greeted by two kind women who gave us programs. As we were seated in the small sanctuary it began to feel like Christmas. The gospel choir sang a few energetic numbers, including “Hail Holy Queen” from Sister Act!

Together, the congregation read passages of the Christmas story from the Bible and sang carols interchangeably in Japanese. Though my reading and comprehension isn’t good enough to understand everything, I was able to tell what the passage was about because I know the story so well. My experience in the Philippines was similar; ignorant of the culture and language, being among the body of believers and worshipping the same God dissolves those petty differences in an indescribable feeling of unity. The added blessing of participating in the candle-lighting made it feel like home, resuming my traditions. I was still surrounded by loving people who are becoming like family. After the service the congregation played games, like a Christmas quiz. The problem was that it was all in Japanese, and by the time Mari translated it for us we had to quickly vote on the answer! 

I may have already mentioned that rock paper scissors, a.k.a “janken”, resolves all disputes and ties. Thus, when 10 people all voted for “B” as the answer to number 2, those 10 people stood up and did janken for the prize. Have you ever seen a mass of people all playing janken at the same time?! It’s amazing. Ashley, Janelle, and Mari each brought home a prize---I almost got one but lost the very last round to a guy in the choir.

On the way home we even passed by a large light display and soaked in the Christmas cheer.

This, of course, was nothing compared to the excitement of Christmas Eve. Yuta took me shopping for my last-minute gifts, and Jay came along for the fun. I’m a terrible gift-giver and shopping kind of stresses me out, so it was nice to have an “expert” opinion. Ending the trip with a nice bowl of hot ramen, and lovely drive through the hillside it was beginning to feel a lot like Christmas.  

Then Dan and I made a pot of glazed carrots.

A few Japanese friends picked us up and we toted our food and presents to the outskirts of town to Manri’s house for some festivities. Upon arriving we set up the food as the turkey finished cooking. We congregated in the main room and I started playing carols on the upright piano. A few carols like Silent Night and We Wish You a Merry Christmas have made the transpacific journey and are now popular in Japan. It was quite fun singing songs in both Japanese and English! As food was served we stuffed ourselves with turkey, mashed potatoes and gravy, beef stew, stuffing, kimuchee, glazed carrots, and plenty of desserts. I sat on the heated carpet. Yes, heated carpet. It’s a great way to get toasty in a hurry on a cold snowy night. 

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Emi's yummy turkey leg.
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Our modest Christmas feast
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Yuta and Janelle are hungry reindeer!
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Even Mrs. Claus showed up, and happened to grow a beard.
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Ms. Eri Santa, Travis and his brothers, Ashley, Manri, and Emi.
And it snowed. It snowed just as Travis and his two visiting brothers came in to join us for the rest of the evening, having just completed the long flight and train journey from America. We spent more time visiting, taking pictures, and opening presents before we finally said goodnight at 11:30 and went home.

Christmas morning I woke up at 8am, awaking to an un-snowy winter wonderland….so I went back to sleep. Getting up an hour later, I worked a bit on my knitting, skyped with my parents, and took a nice Christmas shower.

Do you realize you can stick anything after “Christmas” and make it festive? Yeah, like “Christmas shower.” Why do we do that?...

Then I made some special Christmas pancake batter: my traditional wheat recipe spiced up with walnuts, wheat germ, and cinnamon chips. I brought the batter, the rest of my eggs, and my little stash of wrapped gifts sent by my friends and headed downstairs to the Newhards. Walking in I was welcomed with a hearty “Merry Christmas!” by Jay, Ashley, Dan, and Yuta. Janelle soon followed and we made a great Christmas breakfast complete with garlic scrambled eggs and ham. Yummmm.

Then we opened Christmas presents. Yay! We even popped the little  Christmas packing peanuts in each other’s faces. It was pretty legit.

The rest of the Christmas afternoon was typical Christmas laziness, just how I like it. Playing with our new Christmas toys we kept in our Christmas pajamas and had a Christmas file-sharing party. This evening we’re going to the local church for Christmas service and Christmas dinner, then I’m packing for my post-Christmas trip to Tokyo!




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